A new trend of members-only eating is adding to the industry's stuffiness
Reservations at restaurants became routine during the epidemic, whether we liked it or not. Despite the fact that they have helped to alleviate overcrowding in interior places and allow restaurants to staff effectively during labor shortages, they have made dining out feel even more elite. While some restaurants have relaxed their reservation procedures as pandemic restrictions have lifted, others have capitalized on the VIP experience by demanding even more from customers who wish to dine out. In certain circumstances, membership is required just to reserve a reservation.
How does paywall dining work?
The ability to make reservations is becoming a regular credit card bonus, according to The New York Times, thanks to initiatives like Resy and American Express's joint venture, Global Dining Access. Becoming a member of the program not only guarantees a table in a restaurant, but also provides unique access to high-end events such as chef dinners and "universal status among Amex and Resy partner restaurants, signaling you're a distinguished visitor."
Some restaurants are members-only, such as Haiku in Miami, which has two membership tiers: an invitation-only version that requires members to commit to at least four 10- to 12-course dinners per year, or an application-only version that requires a commitment of at least two 10- to 12-course dinners per year. The restaurant does not openly publish membership price, which is a very solid indicator that it is very, very costly.
Then there's the digital option, which is more of a barrier that restricts access to the online reservation platform rather than a membership. Consider it the internet equivalent of slipping a $20 money into a host's palm to skip the queue, except with cryptocurrencies. Sites such as Front of House enable restaurants to offer "digital collectibles" (NFTs) that can benefit loyal customers. For example, New York City's Dame Restaurant offered artifacts for $1,000 apiece, allowing its owners to reserve a table once a week until the end of the year.
The disadvantages of paywall eating
If you can afford any of these alternatives, you are significantly restricting your culinary options. While there are obviously benefits to becoming a regular at a certain establishment, being compelled to become a regular due to a financial commitment does not seem like the ideal way to go about it. How many times would you have to visit Dame to justify spending $1,000 simply to make the reservation? Maybe more than you'd want. (Of course, making an experience "worth it" implies that the money you spend is somehow finite, yet money just does not operate that way for the privileged.)
In a world already saturated with snobbish eating experiences, this adds yet another layer of elitism and class inequality. At the end of the day, we all have to do something to survive. Paying to make a reservation feels like a waste of money, a price imposed specifically to exclude. Instead of forming exclusive clubs, we should strive to ensure that everyone can have a wonderful lunch out without breaking the wallet.
#Paywall #FineDining #Dining
SOURCE: thetakeout
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